Meet Chef Alain Ducasse of Le Grand Contrôle

Stories

Chef Alain Ducasse’s inspirations at the helm of the Michelin-starred restaurant at Grand Contrôle.

Your 'Proust madeleine'?

The tastes of my childhood. Even today, they remain the yardstick of my judgment. These memories are flavors and smells, like the roast chicken my grandmother used to make every Sunday. They are also actions, like the ones I performed when I used to pick vegetables in the garden. In short, they are the tastes of nature: one must never forget that before cuisine, there is nature.

Your definition of a restaurant?

A restaurant is a place where one eats. Does this definition seem obvious? Absolutely not! When I say it’s a place where one eats, I evoke the concept of commensality. Eating is a social and cultural act. Sitting down to eat is sharing a moment of exchange. It’s entering a happy parenthesis. The table is the most civilized place in the world.

A dinner like an artwork?

The royal dinner at my restaurant at Le Grand Contrôle, Versailles. It’s probably one of the most splendid examples one can imagine. Everything about it is exceptional: the beautifully renovated setting, the view of the Orangery of the palace, the ambiance with the staff in period costumes, and of course, the cuisine showcasing the talents of Chef Stéphane Duchiron and Chef Pâtissier Aymeric Pinard. The dinner unfolds in five courses, inspired by the ‘services’ that followed one another during the royal era. No one can resist the charm of this truly timeless moment.

The product you prefer to work with?

Local and seasonal produce. As a chef, we all appreciate ingredients as long as they come from environmentally friendly agriculture. That said, I have a particular fondness for vegetables. They express the truth of a region, and we love the authenticity of their taste. It’s that authenticity that inspires the recipes.

One must never forget that before cooking, there is nature.

How does the opulent era of Versailles inspire you?

It inspired me to create the Grand Contrôle restaurant! Everything is there: the decor, the costumes, the lighting, the music. But it’s certainly not a copy. To be honest, no one would want to recreate a meal identical to those of the past today – it would be too long and too heavy. However, Versailles is a tremendous inspiration. The Grand Contrôle restaurant offers an ‘in the style of’ experience, which is a contemporary reinterpretation of the spirit of those bygone meals.

What are the innovations to look out for at Ducasse?

I could tell you about the fantastic work done by my young chefs, this ‘Naturalité Generation’ that interprets a cuisine that is more respectful of nature in a very personal and contemporary way. But I also want to mention our great chocolate manufacturing adventure. We are currently expanding across Europe and building an excellent reception. We have truly invented a different approach to chocolate, with distinct and new flavors.

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Le Grand Contrôle by Elia Harou

Stories

Elia Harou, Head of Customer Experience, shares with us the secrets of a unique stay at the Grand Contrôle, Château de Versailles.

Our guests come to visit Le Grand Contrôle in search of a unique experience, a journey through time.

In a way, we are “dream makers.” We draw our inspiration from our surroundings, the essence of the place, its history, and the desires of our guests.

These are the starting points for crafting experiences that are increasingly rich and distinctive.

We work as a team to create the most unique experiences for our cherished guests:

Le Lever de la Reine‘ traces its origins back to the modesty bath that was part of the customs and traditions of Queen Marie-Antoinette.

The equestrian initiation transports us to the era of the great riders of the Court, as we traverse the hunting paths of the Versailles park.

Discovering the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte from a helicopter reveals a spectacular view of the estate and gardens.

Creating everlasting memories for our guests is what drives me every day, adding an thrilling dimension to my profession.

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Introducing Mauro Governato

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Join us in the Saint-Tropez sunshine as Mauro Governato, General Manager of Château de La Messardière, tells us more about this mythic palace and its sister property, the Pan Deï Palais.

How do you create connections between Château de La Messardière and the Pan Deï Palais?

Our two Saint-Tropez hotels are complementary. They share, among other things, the private beach Jardin Tropézina, transportation in our Mini Moke or Rolls-Royce, as well as the iconic amenities of the Château de La Messardière resort, such as the Valmont Spa or the Airelles Summer Camp for kids. Our guests can also savor the richness of the culinary offerings from both properties. While they maintain a strong and distinct identity, there is a true harmony between them.

What's new to discover this summer?

You will discover a new restaurant concept at the Pan Deï Palais, where Chef Antonio Oresta invites guests to experience “Les Délices du Pan Deï,” exploring local cuisine elevated with subtle Indian influences that delight both the eyes and taste buds. There’s no fixed menu, only the chef’s suggestions based on his inspirations and market-fresh ingredients.

At Château de La Messardière, esthetic medicine specialist INNERSKIN makes its debut at the spa, and children will be delighted to explore an educational farm on the estate. Not to mention our new rooms and suites, some with private gardens and others with pools.

Your latest favorite in the region?

For rejuvenating amidst nature’s heart, I often recommend our guests take a stroll towards Cap Taillat. It offers spectacular viewpoints with absolutely magical lighting.

Why is Saint-Tropez such an iconic destination? How does it renew itself every season?

Saint-Tropez is a multifaceted destination. There are the beaches and the sea, of course, but also hiking, markets, museums, restaurants, bars, and more. The possibilities are endless. Every year, the town offers new experiences to holidaymakers. That’s why Saint-Tropez is one of the most sought-after places in the world every summer!

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Celebrated architect, Jean-Michel Gathy, shares his vision of the future of luxury hotels

Stories

In your opinion, what does the future hold for luxury hotels?

There are many definitions of luxury, though I would define luxury as “exclusiveness”. So, I think that in the years to come, luxury will be more and more finely tuned. Guests appreciate staying in hotels that stand out for offering a special identity to which they can relate. This can be the place where they are located, or the theme around which they evolve (an art form, a type of cuisine, a sport, a special kind of environment etc.). The most notable luxury hotels tend to offer these defining features.

How do luxury hotels reinvent themselves?

People used to luxury have extremely specific expectations with regard to their free time. Luxury involves not only meeting the desires of one’s guests, but also paying very close attention to the tiniest details, even those that seem the least significant. It also means rousing emotions. To reinvent themselves, luxury hotels need to compose a score which can be likened to evolutions in the art of living. They must reflect their clients’ preferences, incorporate them, and then go even further by adjusting their own operations.

How should a luxury hotel adapt in order to attract and keep its clientele?

A hotel’s signature can attract and make loyal those clients who will identify with it. Each Maison Airelles has its own tale to tell, something which really appeals to guests. In Gordes, it is Provence in a 2CV, in Versailles, it’s the glamour of Marie-Antoinette! In this sense, I feel that the vision of luxury hotels conveyed by Airelles is totally valid: simplicity, authenticity and exclusiveness make each Maison unique. It is “homemade” luxury that expresses the spirit of each place.

The extraordinary Airelles Venezia will be the group’s first address outside France

Can you tell us more about the new Airelles hotel in Venice?

Venice is full of wonderful hotels, though none of them offer an especially peaceful setting in the city. With Airelles Venezia, on the island of La Giudecca, this is no longer the case: the hotel comprises a collection of five historic residences around an inner garden of about 2.5 acres. Beautifully romantic, the garden is an incredibly special feature of this magnificent project, which will offer a unique experience in Venice. The Airelles Collection is growing, and this exceptional hotel will be its first outside France.

How have you combined the Airelles spirit with the building's cultural heritage?

The watchwords are simplicity and authenticity. From the very start of the project, I wanted, at all costs, to retain the spirit reflecting the Airelles DNA, while respecting the history of the site. Once this is in place, it then gives space for each of the other Airelles teams to be be able to express their talent. Each of the buildings which encircle the garden, such as the Conventino or Monasterio, will therefore preserve its own identity bearing witness to its past. All together, the hotel will thus offer an exceptional setting worthy of the greatest theatrical decors.

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French porcelain manufacturer Michel Bernardaud collaborates with Le Grand Contrôle

Stories

Every detail at Le Grand Contrôle has been carefully considered. When you visit us, you’ll discover that each dish is served in porcelain tableware from La Maison Bernardaud, a French company renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship.

You are a great purveyor of French luxury and the decorative arts. What do these demands actually involve?

We are heirs to the French legacy of porcelain. One of the last in the world to bear a family name, our firm has been run for the past 160 years by the Bernardaud family. Transmission of our expertise, the key to the firm’s prosperity, will lie at the core of the anniversary we will celebrate next year.

Has your contribution to La Table du Chef Alain Ducasse at Le Grand Contrôle invited you to reinvent the tradition of the "Grand Siècle"?

We have been working with Chef Alain Ducasse across the world for many years. Joining him at the Château de Versailles with Airelles seemed self-evident, as we share the same level of high demands. One of our subsidiaries, L’Ancienne Manufacture Royale, created by Louis XVI’s brother, is the matriarch of Limoges Porcelain. It reproduces identical pieces from the 18th and 19th centuries, whose originals are exhibited in famous museums. This ensures full immersion for the guests.

La Maison Bernardaud relies on respect for ancestral know-how while pursuing constant innovation. How do you maintain a balance?

Porcelain is one of man’s first manufacturing activities. Since our creation, we have constantly reinvented this ancient material while building privileged ties with contemporary designers and benefitting from new technologies. Our workshops thus produce new forms, colours etc.

In what way does your tableware impact the setting?

Thanks to firms like Bernardaud, Airelles has succeeded in preserving the soul of Le Grand Contrôle. Working with such prestigious partners who share our values creates a wonderful synergy. I am very proud of this and often see us as “the gang of do-gooders.”

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Airelles Val d'Isère by François Scaviner

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Interview of François Scaviner, Hospitality Services Manager at Airelles Val d’Isère.

“First, a nod and a wink: they day they arrive, it is customary for us to surprise our guests. We discreetly take their photos and when they enter La Grande Ourse restaurant, they find them subtly displayed on the wall… Real Hollywood stars!”

“Second, an aspiration: the smoking lounge, together with its Honesty Bar. This is a warm setting, propitious to rest, reflection, sometimes even introspection. I find this room extremely pleasant, and it is not rare that you have it all to yourself.”

“And finally, an indiscretion: our hotel has secret doors hidden behind books and furniture. It’s up to you to find them…”

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Craftsmen of bliss

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Meet Les Sentinelles des Airelles, those men and women who embody the hotel and meet (nearly) all your requirements.

Being available for guests, fulfilling their needs, offering advice to make their stays unforgettable… Such are the assignments of a Clés d’Or Concierge like Romain Craffe. “It requires discretion, responsiveness and a sense of detail. You have to obtain the tiniest piece of information to be constantly by their sides.

For Head Barman Louis Delevaux, the Bar at Les Airelles is a great place for meeting up and sharing. “All our guests head for the Bar on their arrival, but also during their stay or just before they leave. Some like to confide in us, we need to show attentiveness and discretion. Others want to make discoveries, so it is vital for us to be fully acquainted with our proposals and master the art of cocktails, in order to anticipate their wishes even before they describe them.”

Émeline Mannaz, Human Resources Manager, discovered “a second family” on her first mission at Les Airelles, alongside General Manager, Jean-Pierre Lerallu. She was immediately won over: “To be able to work here is a real stroke of luck. We have smiles on our faces all day long! Committed teams make our guests even happier, I’m totally sure of that!”

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Régis Mathieu, designer and publisher of chandeliers, collaborates with Les Maisons Airelles

Stories

Entrusted with creating a new edition of light fixtures for the famous Hall of Mirrors, Mathieu Lustrerie, an “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant”, also works for Airelles Collection.

The family enterprise is associated with the art of lighting. How do you perpetuate its expertise?

We see ourselves as being at the service of chandeliers. When my father created the firm in 1948, their sole purpose was lighting. While orienting Mathieu Lustrerie towards historic monuments, chandeliers retrieved their letters of nobility and were again seen as prestigious objects.

Tell us about your partnership with Airelles.

At Château de La Messardière, we created contemporary chandeliers made of rock crystal for the Japanese restaurant, Matsuhisa. At Les Airelles, we have carried out work halfway between creation and the restitution of old items by adapting historic chandeliers to suit the proportions of Les Chalets des Airelles. We have also produced new editions of period chandeliers for Le Grand Contrôle while retaining the details that make all the difference. We take great pride in contributing to the Airelles experience with our creations.

Tell us more about your work at Le Grand Contrôle?

We created 500 light fixtures for this hotel, mobilizing about 30 artists and craftsmen for almost two years. The lighting reproduces that of the hotel de Versailles identically, thanks to our patented LED bulbs which recreate the halo and colour of a real flame. Total immersion in an 18th-century atmosphere!

Your workshops are located in the former ochre factory in Gargas. What is your relationship with Provence?

I live in the family home in Apt, near Gordes. Our Southern workshops (Editor’s Note – Les Ateliers Mathieu Lustrerie are also housed in the Hôtel de la Marine in Paris) occupy an area of 5,000 sq.m on over 7.5 acres of land, entirely dedicated to chandeliers. A unique place where we have created a museum and a library to pass on our knowledge to the public. At Christmas, we organize nocturnal exhibitions that are sheer magic and meet with great success throughout the region.

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A gourmet pause with duo Marco Garfagnini, Airelles Culinary Artist, and Sébastien Hoffmann, Pastry Chef at Les Airelles

Stories

What are your premium products?

M.G.: I attach great importance to the flavour of each ingredient in its natural form, even more so if it is fresh and of excellent quality. I am, however, very sensitive to the taste that a good olive-oil can produce. The depth of its savour, its texture on the palate. It offers a thousand new possibilities in cooking.

S.H.: I have to confess my own little sin: all kinds of fruit! They are an endless source of inspiration. Pears, whose juice is a real elixir, mangoes, but also citrus fruits. When picked at maturity, they are real treats for the tastebuds: a dessert of roasted clementines, for example, marinated grapefruit, mint and pepper, proposed on the Carrara menu.

And your most spontaneous inspirations?

M.G.: Chefs often find inspiration in nature or our fondest memories. For me, they are harbours in Italy, the Mediterranean, my grandparents’ gardens, though walks in the mountains too. I find the richness of nature fascinating and inspiring.

S.H.: In my creations, you also find inspiration from the south and the Mediterranean. I also like to work with produce from the land and herbs from kitchen gardens such as tarragon and thyme. They ensure superb harmony among tastes and wonderful lightness for desserts.

Nearby producers guarantee the quality of your dishes?

M.G.: Respect and trust characterize our relationships with our partners. The quality of their produce must be on a par with our demands so that we satisfy our guests.

S.H.: For many years, we have enjoyed privileged partnerships with producers in the region. These ties based on trust allow us to obtain high-quality ingredients throughout the season. It is a real joy for a chef to imagine and conjure up recipes in concert with local producers.

Tell us about carrara, the new restaurant at Les Airelles.

M.G.: It is a unique restaurant, refined and harmonious, offering a real culinary symphony. It is also a place for sharing and warm congeniality, always sunny, as in Carrara, my home town.

S.H.: Those lucky enough to have visited Carrara in Tuscany have savoured the delightful lifestyle in this little town between sea and mountains, known worldwide for its quarries of white marble. Our restaurant remains faithful to this spirit. For me, Carrara represents the well-executed simplicity of Italian tables, densely packed and ultra-friendly.

Finally, how are you approaching this new winter season?

M.G.: We are pursuing our discovery of the charms of simplicity. The authenticity of the Alpine environment continues to inspire us, and we add rays of sunshine to guarantee truly radiant meals for our guests.

S.H.: This season will be marked by comforting, gourmet savours in great classics recalling childhood, but in re-tweaked versions!

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Elio Parente, Head Concierge and "Clefs D'Or"

Stories

Elio Parente is Head Concierge and “Clefs d’or” at Airelles, La Bastide in summer, Head Concierge at Airelles Val d’Isère in winter… He is there to see that your stay is more than perfect.

Guaranteeing your comfort, this native of Naples is a real orchestrator of the ballet performed by the concierges, with an attentive ear for your slightest request. After winning his spurs notably at the Concorde Lafayette and Plaza Athénée in Paris, he arrived in Gordes six years ago with a deep desire to work there and presenting himself spontaneously! He has never left, but made his entrance three years ago in Val d’Isère for the winter season with the same passion: offering each guest the ultimate experience in an environment he adores, authentic and elegant.

Pleasing clients, remaining discreet at all costs, achieving the impossible to meet demands, keeps him happy every day. Elio dreams of just one thing: to make your stay unforgettable

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